How To Blossom Your Christmas Cactus

A Rain Garden Design Creates A Vibrant Atmosphere

2009-02-04T00:53:00.000-08:00

All articles listed are written by the worlds top gardening authors, we hope you enjoy their content as much as we have, if you would care to leave a short message about the article we will be pleased to pass it on to the author. Please go to :->
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A beautiful rain garden design will enhance the pleasure that people feel in their homes. The family room with a big screen television might be a wonderful room, but a rain garden design in the yard will be a very special place. A yard established with this type of design will provide a great place for meeting with friends and family.
A rain garden design in the backyard will be full of life and vibrant color. Your Yard will become the envy of all your friends who will probably want to know how you managed such a beautiful rain garden design. Most rain garden designs are the specialty of dedicated gardeners.
Dedicated gardeners do not go to the nurseries and choose the latest sale item to throw into the backyard. These people think long and hard about a design for their gardens. They are very familiar with the most popular designs, and they decide which of these designs will be best for the space they garden. The rain garden has special characteristics. Many of these dedicated gardeners choose the rain garden design for the special qualities involved.
A Rain Garden Design Makes Great Use Of Natural Resources
A rain garden design is structured to make the best use of natural resources especially water. A rain garden should be good news for those paying the water bill. This bill should be substantially reduced by those with a rain garden for their landscapes.
This type of garden is carefully planned and constructed to capture as much water as possible for use to nourish the plants in the garden. The properly constructed rain garden design should capture water that has run off the roof or gutter of a house.
A properly planned rain garden design should also help to eliminate some of the waste that runs off the soil into fresh water sources. The plants and the soil in this type of garden are carefully planted to keep waste and pollutants from causing the damage that they often do in other gardens. Therefore a rain garden should not be located too close to buildings because this could damage these structures.
These gardens must be carefully placed to capture the water. A rain garden should be placed where the plants will get plenty of sunshine. The sunshine is necessary for the growth of the plants in a rain garden. A beautiful rain garden design will add so much beauty to a home, and those people who would like to establish a garden should look carefully at using this design.

About the Author
Ann Marier has written articles on garden issues such as bird problems providing helpful tips and advice.
Read her latest articles on garden design offering a new insight and ideas

A Quick Guide To Lawn Fertilizing

2009-02-04T00:52:00.002-08:00

If you want your lawn to look healthy and green, it is essential that you fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing is one of the most important factors that affect the growth of your lawn. Proper fertilizing provides color and growth to your lawn grass and also helps it to grow thick.
Let us take a look at the main constituents of fertilizers. Standard fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphate and potash. Fertilizing involve the administration of all these constituents but in different amounts. Most lawns would need nitrogen in the maximum amount as it helps in fast growth, gives the grasses darker color and also thickens the grasses. However, you cannot neglect the administration of phosphate and potash. A deficient in phosphate and potash coupled with high dose of nitrogen will result in too much top growth. This can cause insufficient root growth and reduce nutrient storage capacity.
A balanced fertilizing program would include all the three constituents in proper amount and micro-nutrients that you lawn need. Micro-nutrients are minerals like iron, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. They are not required in large quantity but they are necessary for healthy grass growth. Your lawn soil should already have some of the micro-nutrients but the quantity may not be enough for healthy grass growth. You would have to provide those micro-nutrients that the soil is deficient in.
In order to know how much nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients to administer to your lawn, you need to get a soil test done. You can buy a soil test kit from your favorite nursery or send a soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. The latter is of course more accurate and provides more information about your lawn soil. The downside is that the cost is considerably higher than using a DIY soil test kit.
When you have received the report of the soil test from the lab, you will know the correct amount of nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients that your lawn need. The report will likely include suggestion about fertilizing schedule too. Do not apply the fertilizers in excess of the suggested amount. Doing so will likely cause very good top growth but poor development of the root system. In addition, the excess fertilizers might also cause ecological problems. Excess fertilizers may contaminate nearby lakes or streams due to runoff problem and that might ultimately harm the entire ecosystem.
In general, the best time to fertilize your lawn is about thirty days before the growing season. Then you should go on fertilizing after every sixty days or so throughout the growing season. That would help your lawn grass to grow thick and healthy. Once you have a strong and green lawn, you will discover another side benefit. The amount of weeds present in your lawn will wither. Simply put, the stronger your lawn grass is, the stronger is its resistance against weeds. Thus, proper fertilizing is an effective good way to control weed growth.
Fertilizing require a little planning and some effort to implement it. However, the result is definitely worth the effort. Start giving the nutrients that your lawn need today.

About the Author
Jack Greenwood is the webmaster of GreenLawnCareTips.com which provide information on lawn care and
simple fertilizing tips. Sign up for your free 5-part Green Lawn Care mini course at http://greenlawncaretips.com today.

A New Approach To My House And Garden

2009-02-04T00:52:00.001-08:00

There are so many things that we can do to fill our time. Through the years my hobbies have changed based on what stage in life I am in. When I was in high school I loved to sew. I made many of the clothes that I wore and I also sewed some clothing for my friends. I made many gifts using my mother's sewing machine. When I was in college I did not have the time or the space to sew. I started playing racquetball to fill what spare time I had. As I got older and had a family I did not have the time or the energy for racquetball any more. At that point in my life I was lucky to get everything done that needed to get done so I did not have a great deal of free time. Now my children have grown and I have extra time. I found during the years that they were growing up I neglected my house and garden. Decorating and gardening have always been things that I have been interested in but have not taken the time to do. I started my getting a house and garden magazine. I looked at different decorating ideas for the house and also some great plans for extending your living space into the outdoor area of your home. My husband thought that some of the ideas looked quite complicated and that we should hire a gardener to complete the projects. I told him that this would defeat the purpose of me getting involved in putting time in the house and garden. I went to the large do it yourself home improvement store with my house and garden magazine in tow. I found a helpful knowledgeable clerk and showed them the picture of what I wanted to create in the backyard. He showed me where all the supplies were that I would need to create the fountain area and path that were shown in the picture. He made some suggestions of alternative materials I could use that would hold up better for our climate. I was able to get all the supplies in the truck with one trip. My next-door neighbor is retired and loves working in the yard. He helped me unload the supplies and also to stack the area for the path. Within two days we completed the project and it looked even better than the picture in the magazine. I have taken great pride in the accomplishment and look forward to tackling a new garden project next spring. Now I am going to try some of the indoor decorating ideas for our living room area.

About the Author
Percy Troughton's runs his own garden center in Arkansas. Check out these great Gardening Resources and ideas.
http://www.gardenresourcesworld.net

Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden

2008-12-08T02:26:00.000-08:00

All articles listed are written by the worlds top gardening authors, we hope you enjoy there content as much as we have, if you would care to leave a short message about the article we will be pleased to pass it on to the author. Please go to :->

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Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden
There are a number of ways by which garden weeds can be controlled. In very small garden beds, they can always be hand-picked, a somewhat laborious job admittedly, but not especially so in small scale situations. However, where larger areas are concerned, it is often necessary to seek alternative methods, particularly during the winter/spring seasons in Mediterranean climates, as this is the time of year that vast quantities of annual weed seeds germinate. As in most aspects of life, prevention is better than cure. So how can weeds be prevented in the first place, and what are the pros and cons of the various methods?
One option, is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide, by spraying the ground before it becomes covered in weeds. While this might have its place in large scale situations, it is undesirable in a private garden. The pre-emergent weed killers possess residual properties allowing it to kill seedlings as they emerge over a certain period of time. While being in some ways a convenient method, they can grant you "freedom" from weeds for about 4-6 months, they effectively poison the top layer of soil while in an active state. If applied improperly, especially by untrained persons, they can cause serious damage to the soil and to neighboring garden plants.
A far safer and eco-friendly weed control strategy, is to spread a layer of mulch, usually about 10cm deep, over the soil between the plants. Organic mulches such as wood chippings, provide better growing conditions for the plants than inorganic ones like pebbles, and by slowly degrading, enrich the soil with humus. As far as weed control is concerned, wood chippings are as effective as pebbles provided they are spread to an adequate depth. It should be pointed out though, that mulching is generally ineffective against perennial weeds, its relevance being restricted to annuals.
Sometimes, decorative pebbles or some other type of aggregate, are used as part of the overall garden design. In dry climate and Mediterranean gardens they help to save water by offering an alternative to lawns and flower beds. For example, a bed adjoining the house can be sparsely planted with some interesting sculptural plants, the spaces between them covered by pebbles. A few decorative pots containing flowers can be added, while a climbing rose is trained on the wall as an espalier.
In a circumstance similar to this, it is common for landscape fabrics to be laid on the ground before the pebbles are spread. Portions of fabric are simply cut away where a planted is to be put in the ground. Landscape fabrics, prevent seeds in the ground from germinating, and are therefore considered by many to be an essential tool in weed prevention. There are however, some serious problems associated with their use, of which you may not be aware. Firstly, impermeable plastic sheets, are liable to direct rainwater towards the house, thereby being a source of damp in future years. For this reason, only semi-impermeable materials should be used, but even with these, rain water does not always drain evenly through the soil, but instead, tends to collect at certain points. A second consequence, is that sufficient rainwater is prevented from washing away, or leaching the salts that inevitably build up in the irrigated soil of a dry climate garden. In time, the soil salinity could rise to levels that retard plant growth and seriously damage the soil. Therefore, instead of spreading a fabric, I recommend adding the aggregates to a further depth of say 2-3 cm, to ensure that the weed prevention properties of the mulch are not lost.

About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com

Preventing Garden Weeds A Guide For The Autumn in Mediterranean Climates

2008-12-08T02:24:00.002-08:00

Preventing Garden Weeds - A Guide For The Autumn in Mediterranean Climates
Autumn has arrived in the northern Hemisphere, and with winter approaching, there are two weed issues that should be faced. One is how to prepare the garden so that the weeds are controlled to manageable proportions, and the other is how to deal with noxious perennial weeds right now. I will discuss the perennials later in the article.
The main problem with winter weeds in a Mediterranean type climate, is the high rate of germination and therefore the capacity of the weeds to really smother whole areas. This, can actually be advantageous in large scale situations, but not so in small garden beds. Of course the weeds can always be picked out periodically during the winter, but prevention is usually better than cure as the saying goes. The question is how and by which method?
The best way is to spread a natural, organic mulch over the bare soil to a depth of about 10 cm. Aesthetically speaking, the most appropriate material are wood chippings, although functionally at least, straw and even weeds can be used. Organic mulches are to be preferred to inorganic ones like pebbles or small rocks, because they not only inhibit germination more effectively, but they also improve the soil and general conditions in which the plants grow. Mulches are ineffective though in preventing perennials such as invasive lawn grasses. These have to be treated after they have emerged.
Another method of retarding winter weeds is one often suggested, but which is in my view highly undesirable in a small garden - namely the use of pre-emergent herbicides. These are weed killers that kill the weed seedlings shortly after germination. The crucial point to remember is that these are residual herbicides, effectively poisoning the top layer of the soil for a period of time ranging from two to six months. Furthermore, their application requires considerable knowledge and experience by the user, in order to be both effective on the one hand, but without causing damage to the soil and to neighbouring plants on the other. The granular types are more suitable for a small area than the spraying of a liquid one. Needless to say, only qualified persons should carry out the work.
In big gardens, where there may be large spaces which have yet to be planted, the spraying of empty areas with a pre emergent, may be reluctantly considered, because mulching is often impractical over large areas, mainly for economic reasons, as would be removing weeds by hand through the winter. There is though another way of managing weeds in these situations, which has none of the draw backs associated with residual herbicides, and that is to periodically mow the weeds, say once a month, by either a mechanical weed tool like a strimmer or if possible, even by a lawn mower. The weeds are not eliminated but kept under control. From all points of view this is better for the health of the soil, thereby creating better growing conditions when the open area is finally planted up.
Yet there is still important work to be done with the highly problematical perennial weeds at this time of year. These, in order to be eliminated, have to be treated with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup or other brands of Glyphosate. It should be remembered that Glyphosate, in order to get down to the roots, works slowly and when the temperatures are over 23-24 c. So at the time of writing, the beginning of October, this is about the last chance to effectively deal with the noxious perennial weeds until next spring.

About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com

Prevent Wind Damage To Your Greenhouse

2008-12-08T02:24:00.001-08:00

Prevent Wind Damage To Your Greenhouse
ALL greenhouses are particularly vulnerable to wind damage, and even more so when new.
Of course, some models are stronger in the wind, but they are ALL vulnerable to wind damage - EVEN THE VERY STRONGEST MODELS AVAILABLE IN BRITAIN. So we recommend that you take the potential threat of the wind to damage your greenhouse very seriously not just when choosing your greenhouse, but also positioning it, maintaining it and checking it on an ongoing basis.
Severe winds are so much more common nowadays- the kind of wind which we used to see once every 10 years, now seems to come more than once a year!
To help prevent panes of glass blowing out and to minimize the risk of more serious damage follow these steps:
Position your greenhouse in a position that is as sheltered from the wind as possible. Consider planting hedges or positioning fences as protection from the winds in the future.
Go for the strongest greenhouse you can afford: as a general rule, the more you spend (on the basic frame- not your total bill), the stronger the frame will be. Consider bar capping to replace clips if it is available.
If your glass is held in with clips, your greenhouse is most vulnerable to panes of glass blowing out in high winds. To help prevent this, we recommend using silicone sealant to secure the clips.
Alternatively if you have an Elite or Peak greenhouse you can replace the clips with Bar capping, a full length PVC capping system that secures the glass all the way up and holds it far more firmly in windy conditions.
Please ring us on 0870 4422328 for details.
M ake sure your greenhouse is anchored down to the floor as securely as possible. If your greenhouse is on slabs or concrete; drill and screw it down with brown Rawlplugs and 2" no 10 screws using a 7mm hammer drill bit.
Make sure that your greenhouse is attached properly to your metal base (if applicable) Although some bases come with metal 'J-clips' to attach them to the greenhouse, If you live in windy conditions, we recommend that you drill through the cill of the greenhouse, through the base and bolt them together with a standard greenhouse bolt and nut. Do this about every 2-4' around the greenhouse. This provides a good extra precaution. (Take care if you do this before glazing that your bolt head will not be in the way of the glass)
Shelter your greenhouse by situating fences or hedging in the way of the prevailing winds. Also be aware that areas that look 'sheltered' may in fact be 'wind tunnels' (e.g down the side of a house)
This is very important
Before heavy winds, make sure that your doors and windows are closed and will stay closed during the wind. If you have a sliding door that has no catch to keep it closed, then you can secure it by drilling a hole in the top door track and inserting a padlock.
After heavy winds, Check your greenhouse. You may find that some clips have moved and got behind the glass and are not securing it - This may weaken the fixing of the pane, then later it may blow out in a comparatively mild wind. These clips need repositioning as soon as possible and to help keep them in place you can put some silione around them. Likewise you may even have had a pane blow out and without checking you may never realize it: this is a dangerous situation because there is a gap in the greenhouse and if the wind gets up again it could cause some more damage quickly. NEVER try and repair your greenhouse whilst it is still windy.
If you haven't actually ordered your greenhouse yet, then we recommend that you choose a Hercules or a Robinsons greenhouse for the best wind resistance. But even with these very strongst models, you should remain vigilent.
Your greenhouse is usually included on your home insurance, but it's as well to check this when you talk to your insurers. No greenhouse manufacturer that we know of gives any kind of guarantee for damage caused to your greenhouse by wind.
Please do take the threat posed to your greenhouse by the wind seriously. A few more precautions and a little regular vigilance and maintenance will stack the odds in your favour. If you can see a problem early it can often be mended easily and prevent the damage spreading.
If you have lost some panes of glass, then you can usually get this quickly from your local glass shop. We do stock most of the glass sizes of course, and if you are able to collect from our warehouse in Stoke-on-Trent then we an supply it for you at the best possible price - sometimes less than half the price of your local glass shop. However if you can't collect from our warehouse, your local glass shop will usually be quicker and cheaper.
If glass does blow out of your greenhouse, try and block the hole as quickly as possible even if it's just with a blanket held on with clothes pegs- this stops the wind getting in and casing further damage. Of course you can get glass from us, but we only recommend that you get your replacement glass from us if you are able to collect it. We can not deliver glass in small quantities for a competitive price. If you are unsure where you can get glass locally, then you can type 'glass merchant' into www.yell.com
If the worst happens, and your greenhouse is destroyed by winds, then you should contact your insurance company who will advise you what to do- Usually, this may be to get a written quotation for a replacement. We can help with providing quotations for replacements including removal of the old greenhouse and assembly of the new please call us on 0870 442 2328.

About the Author
The Greenhouse People - http://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk - UK suppliers of Greenhouses for all your growing needs - we stock wooden greenhouses, glass greenhouses, Robinsons greenhouses, Super 7 propagators and many more.

Preserving Flowers - How Can You Do It

2008-12-08T02:22:00.000-08:00

Preserving Flowers - How Can You Do It
Sparkling sunshine. Pretty blossoms. Evergreen leaves. Fresh zephyr. All these and more, aptly describe April approaching. Far from the knowledge of many, such month makes the desert region look stunning. It is there that bright color abounds with the sprouting of the hedgehog cacti, penstemon, acacia and palo verde, among the others.
A lot of roses are also at its peak, which is why there are plenty of locals who take the opportunity in preserving flowers that have been freshly picked. The result will not only enhance the aesthetic value of your interiors but you can also enjoy it for years.
There are actually a lot of methods in preserving flowers namely air ventilation, microwave and chemical application. The common denominator among the three is that they undergo the process of drying. All of those only have one principle, which is to remove the moisture slowly but still able to maintain the flora's original color, shape and texture as much as possible. It does not really take much effort on your end to achieve satisfactory results.
You just really have to be careful that the steps have been religiously followed. When you do, you will be surprised of the great result..of what you were able to make. The elements needed are also not hard to find since they are available in hobby shops or craft stores all year-round.
Air ventilation is the most common technique in preserving flowers. This is perfect for those who are tight on their schedule because it only takes a little period for completion. Any type of that does not wither immediately can be applied.
First is to tie the stems into loose bunches with bands or wires. Hang it upside down in a dark room where a great amount of breeze can enter. It takes several days or even more than a week for it to be totally done.
However, it depends on the thickness of the foliage since the fleshier it is, the more time is asked for it to be desiccated. For those that quickly wilt away, there must be a supportive substance to keep its form.
One of the aspects for preserving flowers that become immediately arid is the utilization of fine sand. It is a conventional manner but definitely one of the best. The problem though is that it is heavy so it bruises the delicate petals.
Another desiccant is borax, which is relatively cheap to buy. Much caution is considered necessary for this since it can irritate the eyes. The one that is pure can achieve a rapid aftermath but there is the peril of burning or bleaching. For an agent that is mild, the said substance can be combined with white cornmeal. Even if it has been utilized before, it can still be applicable for recycling.

About the Author
FloralPatch.com provides safe and secure Same Day Flower Delivery of fresh flowers, floral bouqets, arrangements, and gifts. Cheap Flower Delivery available with same-day delivery.You can get a unique content version of this article.

Prepping Your Lawns Before the Holidays

2008-12-08T02:21:00.002-08:00

Prepping Your Lawns Before the Holidays
Now that the fall season is upon us and you've done all the damage control you can from summer's unfriendly effects, what can you do for your lawn now that will keep it healthy and beautiful?
Lawn maintenance is key for the month of November, the focus should be on sprucing up your lawn and doing any necessary leaf cleanup from October's leaf shedding.
Lawn Spruce Up
Last minute compost As recommended for September and October, it is a good idea to spread a layer of compost over your lawn. You can patch up and reseed bare spots by adding a layer of compost and spreading the same type of seeds you have in the area. The next steps include covering the layer of compost and seeds with an even spread of straw while watering the area consistently, which will allow the grass enough time to germinate before extremely cold temperatures occur. Just because winter is right around the corner doesn't mean you can stop watering your lawn. Your lawn still needs some water action before the cold season settles in.
Cutting grass During the fall and winter, lawn experts recommend cutting your grass a little higher than usual in order to maintain a deeper root system, which contributes to a healthier lawn. Before you mow your lawn next time, raise the deck height of your mower to a height of at least two inches for warm season grasses and about three to four inches for cool-season grasses. In the more densely shaded areas of your lawn, you should allow the grass to reach an even taller height.
Avoid walking on new lawns New lawns can be very sensitive, especially if they are not carefully monitored to avoid being trampled and stepped on. New grass blades can be damaged so much that they may not be able to survive. Give your new grass every opportunity to grow by keeping people, especially children, off the lawn. Also, even if the lawn becomes iced over, avoid walking on it.
Leaf Clean-Up
The more trees you have on your lawn, the more fallen leaves you'll have. It's important not to dismiss fallen leaves and instead to take quick action to remove them, as they can disturb your turf grass, especially recently seeded lawns. Removing leaves quickly will also decrease the chance of insect and lawn disease problems since leaving leaves on your lawn can cause them to become matted down from rain and moisture, and is more prone to developing insect problems and lawn diseases.
To remove leaves from your lawn, a rake or leaf blower both work well. Be careful not to pull up any tender grass blades while using a rake. A bamboo rake can be useful because it does less damage than a plastic or steel rake. If you want to be extra careful with grass blades, a leaf blower will help, although you may want to make sure any and all new seeds have germinated and won't be blown away by the leaf blower.
To avoid both the rake and blower, you have another option with the mulching mower, which can shred leaves into tiny pieces that decompose in the lawn while adding organic matter and nutrients back to the soil. Don't let the name fool you, as the mulching mower does not actually make mulch, but leaves behind compost instead. The mulching mower can be quite beneficial since it leaves compost in the lawn directly as opposed to the trouble of creating a separate compost pile and using that to spread over the lawn.

About the Author
Fran Phalin is a homeowner and writer on things that work. She has used ABC Pest & Lawn services for lawn care and maintenance and to treat lawn disease!
Find out more at www.abcpest.com about what they provide.

Preparing Your Yard For Spring

2008-12-08T02:21:00.001-08:00

Preparing Your Yard For Spring

Spring is traditionally the time when we all think about our yards coming out in bloom again. It is also the best time to transplant any plants that you want moved. Many gardens are still under snow and frost for January and February, but if you have moved into a new home, you can still make plans and take soil tests, etc.
Kits are available for taking your own soil test, or you can locate a company for the service in the yellow pages, or on the Internet. A soil test will probably save you much more than the money that you spend on getting it done.
This is because you will not be buying unsuitable shrubs or flowers for your soil. Consequently, none of your plants will die on you - theoretically! You can also check to see if your fruit trees need to be pruned before they come into blossom. Some shrubs may also need pruning quickly before they come into bud.
If your perennials are spreading out too far, see if one of your gardening neighbors wants to do a swap. You can also prepare your starter trays, and remind yourself when the last day of frost is usual for your area. Most of these preparations can be done in the six weeks leading up to the first frost free day.
Too much enthusiasm resulting in early 'planting out' usually means lost plants. While it is good to prepare your seed boxes, do not be tempted to plant them too early.
Now is also a good time to repair your garden furniture, and paint it, if needed. Also, you can check if you need any frames for your peas, tomatoes, cucumber, broad beans and any heavy headed flowers. Upright frames stop the bugs eating your harvest and they also mean that you have more space to plant more produce in your garden.
If you need new beds, now is the time to do it. Choose where the bed will be, and decide what shape you would like. Cover the proposed new bed with whole newspapers topped with several inches of compost. This method kills the weeds, and later you can just remove the newspaper and dig in the compost.
If you are planting out bulbs, remember to use some compost to keep the soil drained. If the soil feels really heavy and does not crumble very easily, add some coarse sand to help the drainage. Bulbs will just rot away in wet soil that does not drain.
Some people are unsure which way up to plant bulbs; the roots go down. If no roots are attached then put the flat end facing downwards and the more pointed end facing upwards to the sky. If you simply can't tell, place them in the ground on the side and it'll all work out!
If you didn't have enough shelves in your shed or green house last year, then here is the perfect time to remedy that.
Finally, don't get 'caught in the rush' at the lawnmower repair shop. To ensure that you are not waiting two weeks while your grass is shooting up, drag out the lawnmower now. If you drive it to the repair shop, it will be back in a flash! You can also have the shortest, greenest grass on the block if you tend to it now.

About the Author
StacyNeirHomes.com, your online Denver Colorado real estate source. To search Riverfront Park Denver real estate, visit Stacy online today!

Potting Instructions For Your Indoor House Plant

2008-12-08T02:20:00.001-08:00

Potting Instructions For Your Indoor House Plant

To start you need a container and some soil to pot your plant.
Pot
You want a pot that is large enough to hold your indoor plant, the potting soil with a little extra room for water and growth. Do not start with a pot that is a lot larger than the plant as you will not see any growth on top. A pot that is too large can also cause root disease as a result of the excess moisture retained in the soil. A container that is too small will obviously restrict a plant's growth. You also want a pot with drainage holes. If you were to over-water, which may happen, the water sitting on the bottom of the pot will cause many problems for your plant. Plants in containers without drainage openings stay wet longer so if you do not have drainage holes and don't want to put any in, you should at minimum cover the bottom with pebbles so the water can sit away from the roots and be absorbed slowly.
These days pots come in many different materials -- clay, ceramic. plastic, fiberglass etc. Clay is still considered the best container for house plants as it provides excellent aeration for plant roots. FYI - Most plants you purchase already come in a clay pot. A clay pot is very porous and its walls hold moisture and nutrients for the plant roots. I recommend using a clay pot and inserting it into another container for decorative or practical purposes.
Soil
Potting soil is a mix of rich organic material such as peat, compost,vermiculite and barks designed especially for plants growing in containers. You can buy quality potting soil at your local nursery. You may also want to purchase organic potting soil which is not much more expensive these days. Just be sure to ask for soil that is porous, allows root growth, is fast draining and holds moisture. A tip - if the bag of soil is very heavy, it is not the one to buy. If you are very ambitious you can mix your own potting soil. I will post potting soil recipes on my site shortly.
Just remember correctly potting you plant is a key step, along with watering, fertilizing, and providing sufficient light in ensuring its healthy.

About the Author
Ann is a home based business entrepreneur who researches various topics
and reviews internet products. For more information on Indoor House Plants visit her site all about Indoor House Plants

Potassium How to Apply This Essential Nutrient To Your Garden Plants

2008-12-08T02:19:00.000-08:00

Potassium How to Apply This Essential Nutrient To Your Garden Plants
Potassium is one of the three macro elements essential to plant growth and development. The macro elements, which together with potassium include nitrogen and phosphorus, are so called, not because they are more important than the micro elements, but rather because they are needed and consumed in large quantities. It is important to take note of three points here.
*Firstly, by being required and consumed in large amounts, available potassium is liable to be lacking in certain circumstances.
*On the other hand, high concentrations of potassium are liable to reduce the availability to the plants' roots of micro elements such as magnesium. This element by playing an essential role in photosynthesis is no less vital to plant physiology than potassium itself.
*Thirdly, while potassium is easily leached from light sandy soils, it becomes attached to mineral clay particles in heavy soils, by virtue of its positive electrical charge. This means that uncontrolled applications of potassium fertilizer, can significantly increase soil salinity, the gravity of which should not be underestimated both for the health of the plants in the short term, and the soil in the long term.
The question for us gardeners therefore is how to ensure adequate supplies of potassium without affecting either the chemical balance of the soil or its salinity. The safest method is to feed the plants by regularly adding well-rotted organic matter to the soil like compost or commercially prepared humus. Compost as it breaks down to a mineral state, slowly releases nutrients in the soil, including potassium. Furthermore by improving the soil's aeration and expanding its micro biotic activity, mineral uptake of all essential elements is enhanced.
Before planting a new garden, carrying out a soil test will reveal the concentrations of potassium present. If these are below what's required, then adding compost may not by itself be enough to cover the shortfall. When I set up a garden I normally add slow release fertilizer to the compost and then rely exclusively on organic matter after a year or so. Slow release fertilizer is more expensive than readily soluble fertilizer, but much safer and less environmentally damaging.
Lawns under an intensive growing regime may also require additions of potassium in chemical form. From the point of view of root development, it is important to fertilize both in the autumn in Mediterranean climates, and in the early spring. Again I recommend the use of slow release fertilizer. Make sure, particularly in the autumn that the potassium value, marked by the chemical symbol K, is high relative to the N for nitrogen, and the P for phosphorus.

About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to help you get the very best from your garden, so you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com

The Best Place To Get Cozy And Relaxed

2008-12-08T02:16:00.000-08:00

Create an intimate outdoor haven with a new porch swing on your porch or in your yard. A natural place to relax, porch swings are a common site at homes of all shapes and sizes. They are full of country charm and warmth.
When shopping for porch swings you need to look at many things including wood type, finish, size and style. The best way to get an idea of the many varieties of porch swings available is to shop online. Choose from cedar, cypress, mahogany or pine benches. All stand up to the elements well. Once you know what you want your swing made of you need to decide how many people will be using it. Do you want an intimate spot perfect for one or two or do you want to sit with the kids and tell them a tale or two? No matter what size you are looking for you will find it online.
Maybe you want a colonial looking swing with spindles and a love-worn distressed finish? Or maybe you want a vibrant red swing to stand out amongst the lush greens of your garden? Perhaps you want one with the rich look of natural wood to give your home a cottage chic appeal? You'll find what you have been dreaming of in just a few clicks of the mouse.
Choose a pine swing treated to withstand the elements and finished in a rainbow of colors from buttery yellow to lime green or even tractor red. Or go with a plain wood bench that will blend easily with any outdoor décor.
Don't worry if you don't have a porch from which to hang your swing. You can also hang them from a tree in the yard or attach them to an a-frame or an arbor that you can purchase separately. Some of the greatest memories are made on porch swings both on the porch and in the yard. Whether your grandma held you as she spun tales of her girlhood while you swung gently in the breeze on your porch swing or you shared your first kiss there while gazing at the stars, your porch swing will always be a part of you.
So, start shopping now to find the one for you. Sure you can check local stores, but depending on the climate you live in they may not always be in season. But patio furniture is always in season on the internet. Browse the vast selection and reasonable prices at your own pace. It has never been easier to complete a backyard retreat.
Everyone needs a retreat. A place that you go to unwind and de-stress. So why not complete your backyard escape with a porch swing. You'll love gently swaying in the breeze and letting your cares float away on the wind. Whether it is on the porch or in the yard your porch swings are sure to become a favorite place for relaxing and enjoying a warm summer afternoon or your morning cup of Joe. Sure you have a patio table and chairs and maybe even a chaise lounge, but you really won't have that laid-back Southern style without a porch swing in the mix.

About the Author
Jesse Akre, shares comments on painted Adirondack chairs and Adirondack furniture. Shop: teak patio furniture.

Making Compost - is it ready?

2008-12-08T02:13:00.000-08:00

Compost may or may not be ready for use. In fact, compost that has been only partly prepared may harm the growth of plants by leaching nitrogen as it continues to decompose in the soil. Depending on the nature of the materials composting, it may contain materials toxic to plants. Some plants produce hormones that prevent other plants from growing near them and competing for nutrients in the soil. These need full composting to break down and be rendered harmless. How is one to tell when the compost is ready and to what uses may it be put?
As in many an endeavor, experience is a great teacher and an experienced composter will tell if the process is finished by the texture and smell of the product. However, if your are not sure there are a couple of ways to tell.
If you are hot composting and the pile has been active but has now cooled down, give it another turning, ensuring that the moisture content is correct for good composting, about the feel of a wrung out sponge. If the pile does not heat up after a day or two it is likely finished. Again, it should smell earthly sweet and have a crumbly texture. If it is finished use it and if it is not finished you have already turned it for the next heat and cool cycle.
An even more sure test is to take a sample of the compost, at least a good handful, and put it into a glass jar. Close the lid and place it in a warm, sunny location for about three days. Open the jar and take a smell. Sour smells mean the compost is not done and an earthy, rich smell means it is ready for use. If not done, you may either turn the pile or not but test it again in about a week. Once finished, compost may be used in a myriad of way.
At the end of the growing season or before it starts compost makes a great soil conditioner. As a rule of thumb one inch of compost is sufficient for soil that is already fairly good, and three inches for problem soil or a first year garden. One cubic foot of compost will cover 12 square feet of garden to one inch deep and four square feet of garden three inches deep. If about a third of a pile is lost during the composting process, a pile three feet high, wide and deep will produce about 18 cubic feet of compost. Fork the compost into the top three inches of soil and certainly no deeper than eight inches for best results.
During the season apply compost as a mulch for the growing plants. It will help to retain moisture in the soil and to suppress weeds. Use any where from one to three inches. Rainfall and watering will cause it to act as a slow release fertilizer as the water trickles through. Earthworms love it and will carry it down into the soil for you while they leave behind even richer castings for another plant boost.
For another plant boost during the growing season, make a compost tea by placing a good shovel full of compost in a burlap sack and placing it in a 5 gallon bucket of water in the hot sun for a week. Pour the resulting "tea" liberally over the plants to boost their growth. Unlike commercial liquid fertilizers, compost tea will not burn the plants and only encourage growth. The spent compost in the bag is still a good soil conditioner.
Whatever the use to which it is put, well finished compost will be loved by the garden and the gardener alike.

About the Author
An avid gardener for over 25 years, Darrell Feltmate brings to Compost Central a wealth of knowledge of making compost for the best garden ever. He has had compost piles over 25 feet long and others in neat bins. Some piles have finished in as little as two weeks. Over the years many shavings from his